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Good chow is pretty much guaranteed when you go into an eatery and the person behind the grill is the person whose name is on the sign outside. Theresa herself is one of the cooks at this Broadway Market lunch stand. There are a couple of affable, efficient waitresses. Everyone calls you "hon." The food is homemade, tasty, and astonishingly cheap.

Lunch is good. There are many different sandwiches, and all the made-from-scratch soups are excellent. Chicken with dumplings ($2.25) is a big favorite: Just about everyone who sits at the counter says, "Ooh, chicken and dumplings!" then orders it, looking beatific. The rich broth is thick, halfway between soup and gravy, full of breast meat and hefty, doughy dumplings and large carrot coins. There's a biscuit on the side, warmed up and spread with butter.

Best of all is breakfast. On a china plate, home fries lovingly long-cooked until perfectly golden and two eggs over easy. On another plate, a short stack of blueberry pancakes, mammoth, fluffy. Toast in a basket. It's an embarrassing amount of food, but so good you helplessly wolf it all down. The bill is $4.98.