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Cheap Eats

Nino Taco

Nino Taco

This location is closed

By Christopher Skokna | Posted 5/15/2002

All I ask of a cheapo Tex-Mex joint is that it deliver my meat, cheese, refried beans, tortilla, and chiles in a tasty, filling manner. Sadly, many local border-food eateries fail at even that. Not so Nino Taco. This Baltimore County hole-in-the-wall assembles the usual--huge burritos, tacos, nachos, etc.--with something resembling care. While chowing on my enchilada platter ($5.50)--two beef enchiladas with beans, chips, and cheese dip--I overheard a customer and one of the cooks discussing the relative merits of various chile peppers. You can taste that attention to detail in Nino's simple (the hybrid chicken-fajita burrito [$5.25] is as fancy as the menu gets) but fresh and freshly made offerings. The tortillas taste of corn, the spices mix nicely, and the lard-free refrieds are some of the area's yummiest. Even a 95-cent order of churros (fried pastries covered in powdered sugar) went beyond the call of duty: The two large sticks of dough tasted like something your mom might make, a pleasing contrast to the cafeteria-style desserts too many Tex-Mex places serve up.

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