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We ordered enough food to cover the small plastic-covered table. The chips and guacamole ($1.75) weren't anything to send a postcard home about, but you'll want to add that garlicky guacamole sauce and thin salsa to a few of dishes just for kicks. Sopa de fideos ($2) floated noodles in a meat-tinged broth with a lime wedge and a creamy muy caliente sauce on the side. The especiale, tomato-saucy stewed meatballs ($6.75), came with watery pinto beans and fluffy rice on the side. We discovered a little present at the center of each ball--some tasty hard-boiled egg.

Allowed to choose our own selection of three corn-husked tamales, we ordered one pork, one cheese, and one sweet ($5.50). The cheese brought the gooey party, and the sweet--violently magenta and filled with soft raisins--was a weird yum. All good, but the tacos al paisano de pollo ($5.75) broke the piñata. The three soft tacos were lovingly constructed of oily, handmade corn tortillas filled with pulled roast chicken, chopped red onion, and cilantro. Te amo. Come for dinner and BYOB, amigo, but bring the cash--they don't take plastic.