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Consider the hot dog. Not chorizo, or kielbasa, or andouille sausage--the hot dog. Franks are celebrated (and sucked down) at the ballpark, sure, but they take a backseat to burgers everywhere else. An exception is Highlandtown's G&A Restaurant, where wieners are parked front and center--literally. The lowly links grill away right by the front window, near a sign touting G&A's famous coney island hotdogs.

The green linoleum countertop at this diner-esque storefront is a little worn but spic and span. Cokes come in those classic bell-shaped, uh, Coke glasses. We order a dog ($1.40) with everything. "I need one up," the waitress hollers at the griller. Seconds later she slides a little plate in front of us. There's a hot dog down there somewhere, beneath all the fresh onion, light brown chili, and mustard. Five or six bites later, it's gone. Delicious. Nothing else to do but order another.

G&A doesn't just do dogs. You can get breakfast all day, a formidable Greek salad, even crab cakes. But the Coneys are what most folks come in for. They've been doing the dog here since 1927. They have it down.