Once upon a time, Polock Johnny's--"serving Bawmer since 1921"--was all over the city. The empire has dwindled now to three locations: Morrell Park in Southwest Baltimore, downtown's Lexington Market, and Ocean City. Baltimore is a town that still relishes a good Polish sausage (with lots of sauerkraut and brown mustard, please), and the remaining small-but-focused PJ's counters dish 'em up, as ever, plump, firm, and flavorful. Original Polish, $2.30; jumbo hang-off-the-bun Polish, $2.50. All the classic go-withs are available, but cheese or kraut are two bits extra. Hand-cut "Ocean City" fries ($1.50/$2.50) or fat onion rings ($1.75/$2.75) shall be your vegetable and fresh, real lemonade (90 cents/$1.15/$1.50) your beverage.