If you're deep in northwest suburbia, you could do worse than Snyder's. It's your usual New York-style deli, with movie posters on the wall, checkered tile on the floor, and pastrami on the menu. Don't try Bubbie's chicken soup ($2.99) if you're on a low-salt diet: Bubbie slipped up with the shaker the day we visited, and the salty soup was all but inedible. Things improved markedly with the stuffed cabbage ($4.99), undoubtedly the largest around, like a giant cabbage burrito. The tasty meat and rice filling was nicely spiced, and a jazzy tomato sauce tied the whole thing together.
The Reuben ($6.99) was also precisely as it should be: a buttery, crisp-grilled tower of pastrami, sauerkraut, and Swiss cheese on thick rye bread. And while the hot beef brisket platter ($7.99) wasn't perfect--too salty, brisket a little tough--it was still pretty good in a comfort-food kind of way. The accompanying onion-studded potato pancakes were the best thing on the plate--next time we might just make do with a platter of those little yumsters instead.
But while we enjoy Snyder's every now and again, service can be a serious problem. Our most recent visit stretched to nearly two hours on a weekday afternoon, when the place was two-thirds empty. Though we spent most of lunch eyeballing the lemon coconut cake in the glass case, we ultimately skipped dessert; it took three requests and nearly 30 minutes just to get the check. We should probably thank our semi-surly waitress for helping us stick to our diet.