It’s winter. You need spice; you need dark flavors. Wine needs coriander, cloves, and cinnamon. Cookies need ginger and nutmeg. Sandwiches need plenty of stone-ground mustard and dark rye bread. Everything needs to be hot, steaming, and sumptuous.
We broke into these winter flavors by stopping by Mueller’s Delicatessen one dank day last week. If it’s Teutonic, sweet, and spicy, they’ve probably got it. From pfeffernuesse cookies to stolen to ginger lebkuchen to bottles of pre-made gluhwein—a sweet, spicy wine hinted at above, which needs to be served hot in a mug before you think about holiday shopping—this little deli pleases the Germanic sweet tooth, whether native or acquired. But it is a deli, not just an imported German food shop, so you also get your bratwurst, weisswurst, knockwurst, or whatever wurst you’re needing, along with homestyle faves ham, turkey, bologna, and roast beef. We picked up a roast beef on pumpernickel platter—excellent, medium rare roast beef on superheavy and nutty pump, with a side of German potato salad and a Coke ($5.65)—a great sandwich and a good deal. We also bought a couple of salads—most of which run $2-$4 per pound—and were pleased with the cheap and simple ham salad. It was great with just crackers. The chicken salad, while creamy, meaty and filling, needed something. That’s right—spice.