Is South Beach still the bomb? Like, is everyone’s New Year’s resolution (again) to pork out on the meats and kick those 2004 pounds to the curb? Well, consider us resolved, because we love us some chicken, especially charbroiled Peruvian chicken. Pollo à la Brasa brings the stuff high-protein diets are made of (and ruined by) to Fells Point without much glam or a lot of slamming side dishes, but believe us, it doesn’t even matter.
A quarter (white meat $5.25, dark $4.75) or a half ($6.65) of a flavorful charbroiled Peruvian chicken, with gobs of cracked pepper and spice between the juicy meat and crispy skin, comes on a platter with a choice of two sides. We tried fries, black beans and rice, iceberg lettuce salad, fried plantains, and big salty chunks of fried yucca. The dinner roll was soft and sweet, and the off-the-menu surprise was a mustardy, briny scabeche made of cauliflower, green beans, carrots, and other crisp veggies. The Latino chicken sandwich ($4.55) encased creamy sauce, large planks of chicken, lettuce, tomato, and thinly sliced red onion in a fabulous crusty roll with a choice of hot, medium, or mild garlic sauce on the side, and came with skinny l’il fries. The poultry is perfection, but the fat-free ranch dressing is not ranch; it’s raunch, so get rid of it, ’cause we’ll be back.