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We couldn’t tell if Bill’s Place was even open, its dark and anonymous storefront blending into the rest of this mostly shuttered block north of Union Square. But a squint into the window revealed a gurgling lemonade machine and a cheese pizza warming on top of an oven. Though the inside offers little more than a tiled standing area and a kitchen behind a Plexiglas barrier, the menu boasts old-school grilled lunchtime fare, perfect for a brisk winter day. The cheese-steak subs ($4.50) were good, we were told, so we ordered one with grilled green peppers, onions, ’Murican cheese, and tomatoes. The grill cook took great care with the ingredients, practically chopping the steak into a fine powder. The sandwich was good and tender, overflowing its chewy roll. The meatball sub ($4.50) was just passable—not bad, though nothing special—but Bill’s menu is large enough that if something doesn’t hit home just move down the list. Maybe next time we’ll try the cheese pizza. It did look good.

E-mail Tim Hill