The stretch of Reisterstown Road south of the Plaza has not been kind to restaurants (RIP North Carolina Barbecue Corral), so we’re crossing our fingers for Sista Sandra’s, which has been serving up homemade soul food from its storefront location for about a year and a half. For the most part, it’s really, really good, covering all the soul-food clichés: comforting, rib-sticking, fattening, homey, sweet, salty, etc. If we were forced to choose one item from the selection of chicken, ribs, and fish entrées (all of which come with bread and two sides), we’d pick the Cajun fried catfish ($11.99), whose lightly spiced breading is substantial but doesn’t overwhelm the distinctive catfish flavor.
As for those sides, feel free to make a meal of ’em (veggie lover’s plate, featuring four sides, $11.99). While the macaroni and cheese and garlic mashed potatoes could use more seasoning, the yams are candied perfectly, the greens are salty and bitter, and the green beans taste fresh. On the other hand, the corn bread is too dry and could use more flavor (put some jalapeños in there, or at least make that an option), and the sweet tea ($2) may not be freshly brewed. Whatever you do—and it won’t be easy—save room for the dessert, especially Sista Sandra’s Frankenstein monster strawberry shortcake/banana pudding creation ($3.75).