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An after-church institution, this bright and roomy Randallstown cafeteria was empty on a recent weeknight, catering mostly to takeout traffic. But we weren’t lonely in the window booth; there was company from Kool and the Gang over the speakers, and comfort from generous portions of surprisingly light soul food smothered in terrific flavors, not soporific grease.

Everything is moist. The fried chicken breast ($7.75) is brilliantly tender meat underneath a crisp, salty skin—even more amazing for having come out of a warming pan. Likewise, the pork ribs ($9.95) are tender enough to pick off with the flimsy plastic forks provided, but if you don’t eat with your fingers you won’t be able to lick off the tangy sauce afterward. Each main dish comes with two sides. Moistest are the musky greens, which come super-salty and swimming in a pristine broth perfect for corn muffin-dipping. The sweet succotash lends perfect summery balance, though the stuffing is a bit blah. You won’t have room for dessert, but the cinnamon-spiked candied yams’ll do double duty as starch and sugar. Those yams alone are reason to trek out to the county—as is the $6.95 all-you-can-eat lunch.