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The Evergreen


Address:501 W. Coldspring Lane
Baltimore, MD 21210

More on Evergreen.

By Tim Hill | Posted 7/20/2005

We went in for the salads, which a friend described as the best in town, but we stayed for the sandwiches. Everything about the Evergreen clicks—from the laid-back, friendly staff to the delicious-looking muffins and cookies; from the plants hanging from the skylight to the stone-and-tile floor—so much so that it’s a wonder the café didn’t appear in this column a week after it opened all those years ago.

The White Reuben ($6.50) is a knockout punch. The crusty bread is slightly grilled on a panini press and stuffed with turkey, sauerkraut, Russian dressing, and Swiss cheese. It surpasses most Reubens in memory, without leaving the usual plate of oil behind. The Caprese Panini ($6.95) was possibly even better. Grilled focaccia overflows with fresh, mild pesto, mozzarella, and tomatoes (organic, natch)—and maybe even dopamine, as good as it was. The sandwiches came with chips and a pickle, which we ate absently while thinking about what to grab for dessert. We split a Cherry Garcia cookie (for real) with dark chocolate, white chocolate, and dried cherries. Baked just for us, it seemed. Oof, that was good.

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