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It’s just a little red portable kitchen on the side of the road, but it’s one of the most popular drive-through restaurants in the city. On any given workday in this industrial section of Southwest Baltimore, men and women park their pickups, cargo vans, and cars and line up for some of the tastiest pit beef, ham, turkey, and barbeque sandwiches in town. Daily specials like an Italian sausage ($3.80) look tempting. But we go for the pit beef ($5.49) and slather it with fresh horseradish, tiger sauce (horseradish and mayo), some chopped onions, and lots of black pepper. Tender, cooked to just a shade beyond rare, and set on a chewy roll, it’s the classic Baltimore sandwich. We top it with a Coke, some Utz, and sit behind the wheel with foil spread out to catch drippings. Traffic whizzes by, and the lunch break slips away like the end of summer, lost in AM radio haze.

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