With the first bite into a large cheese pizza ($10.95) we knew we had hit gold. So rare is the local pizza that captures the simple yet somehow elusive formula of the New York pie—superthin crust (with puffy, not doughy, crust-ends), semisweet sauce, and salty, dense mozzarela—that we had given up the search. There are plenty of cheese pizzas in town, but none we’ve tasted nails it like Italian Gardens, a friendly takeout counter and sit-down casual restaurant in the anachronistic and quirky Shops at Kenilworth. A quick poll of friends revealed everyone remembered how good the pizza is here but hadn’t been to the mall in years. If you find yourself here shopping for holiday gifts, checking out the model trains, or walking the rather small circuit, you’ll need a big slice to fold in half. Or a whole pie to take home.