Every civilization has its own style for making the Important Things in life; booze for instance, and sausage, too. The ancient nation of Poland’s kielbasa is well represented by Ostrowski’s in Fells Point, and you can’t find what they make at any supermarket—you have to show up here in Fells Point, where it’s made. We originally planned on stopping by for a fresh one to take home and cook, but we phoned ahead (as we suggest you do, since hours and product availability are subject to change) and gregarious proprietor John Ostrowski told us smoked items were in the offing, so the next day we went whole hog and snatched up a trifecta of freshly smoked Polish sausage; about 24 inches (yeah, we measured) of the mild and impeccably greasy-in-a-damn-that’s-good-way regular variety ($3.79/lb.) along with an equal helping of our new fave, the subtly peppercorned Gypsy sausage ($3.99/lb.), and smaller-gauge andouille-style Cajun ($3.99/lb.), blessed with a touch of cayenne, all varieties all-pork, with an 80/20 ratio of lean to fat, and ready to eat as-is. Armed with a jar of Ostrowski’s own red beet horseradish ($1.75) to flesh out the condiment spread beyond mustard, we headed back to work for a surprise office sausage-fest. Yeah, we know how to party.