Szechuan House’s first impressions are not promising: a dining room of distinctly non-Asian senior citizens, Muzak “Edelweiss,” and tables set with the usual fried won tons, duck sauce, and mustard. The menu, too, looked depressingly same-old, until we spied the last page: “Country Side Taste.” Here was the real thing: chow fen (homemade wide rice noodles), spicy-cooked snails, and a whole batch of untranslated treats such as wuu geng niou naan (red-cooked beef tendon). When our server saw us shopping from this page she became very enthusiastic and started making recommendations, which we gratefully accepted. She also imparted the extremely timely information that “dah chang” is Chinese for “intestines,” nixing an initial selection of dah chang with pickled mustard greens ($8.95). The food was prepared and served with impressive speed, and the family-style platters easily fed four—this place is cheap as well as good. We ended up with a subtle dish of silky tofu cooked with scallions, snow peas, chicken, and three kinds of mushrooms in a rich brown sauce (shyong jaang dow fuu, $8.95). Next up was a special, sautéed snow pea tips ($8.95); the tender shoots from the end of the pea plant were delicious paired with sesame oil and many, many slivers of garlic. Finally, aromatic shrimp ($12.95), which we ordered heads on—“Very good, very Chinese that way,” approved our server. The paper-shelled shrimp were lightly fried with lots of salt and pepper and slivers of hot green peppers; we broke off the tails and then bit the body from the head, crunching shells, legs, and all. Excellent eats.