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Eat Feature

Caribbean

Rarah
West Indian Flavour

Eat Special Issue 2009

Cool Comfort EAT: City Paper's annual dining guide

Barbecue and Pit Andy Nelson's Barbecue 11007 York Road, Cockeysville, (410) 527-1226, andynelsonsbbq.com, $-$$ Whe...

Breakfast Blue Moon Café 1621 Aliceanna St., (410) 522-3940, $ For years, Blue Moon has been saving t...

Cafés Atwater's Belvedere Square Market, 529 E. Belvedere Ave., (410) 323-2396; 1425 Clarkview Road, Suit...

Caribbean Judy's Island Grill and Bake Shop 5216 Park Heights Ave., (410) 367-0272, judysislandgrill.com, $-$...

Chinese Grace Garden Chinese Restaurant 1690 Annapolis Road, Odenton, (410) 672-3581, gracegardenchinese.co...

Classic American Burke's Restaurant and Café 36 Light St., (410) 752-4189, burkescafe.com, $$-$$$ Burke's is n...

Contemporary American Abacrombie Fine Food and Accommodations 58 W. Biddle St., (410) 837-3630, abacrombie.net, $$$ Cork...

Delis Attman's Authentic New York Delicatessen 1019 E. Lombard St., (410) 563-2666, attmansdeli.com, $ N...

Diners Jimmy's Restaurant 801 S. Broadway, (410) 327-3273, $ A cornerstone of Fells Point, Jimmy's slings ...

Eclectic Golden West Café 1105 W. 36th St., (410) 889-8891, goldenwestcafe.com, $-$$ Baltimore has ple...

Ethiopian Dukem #2 1100 Maryland Ave., (410) 385-0318, dukemrestaurant.com, $-$$ Luckily, pretty much the on...

French Bonaparte Breads 903 S. Ann St., (410) 342-4000, $ This Fells Point bakery boasts a surprisingly e...

Hawaiian Roy's 720 Aliceanna St., (410) 659-0099, roysrestaurant.com, $$$ With so many fabulous local resta...

Indian and Nepalese Akbar 823 N. Charles St., (410) 539-0944, akbar-restaurant.com, $$ Akbar has the feel of a secret ...

Irish James Joyce Irish Pub and Restaurant 616 S. President St., (410) 727-5107, thejamesjoycepub.com, $$...

Italian Aldo's 306 S. High St., (410) 727-0700, aldositaly.com, $$$ "Sophisticated" and Little Italy don't...

Japanese Aloha Sushi 1218 N. Charles St., (443) 759-8531, $-$$ Everything about Aloha Sushi is just right...

Korean Joung Kak 18 W. 20th St., (410) 837-5231, $$ Its partisans will tell you this is the best Korean r...

Latin Arcos Restaurant and Bar 129 S. Broadway, (410) 522-4777, arcosrestaurante.com, $$ Because there's...

Mediterranean Black Olive 814 S. Bond St., (410) 276-7141, theblackolive.com, $$-$$$ Fells Point Greek restauran...

Middle Eastern Amer's Café 7624 Belair Road, Belair Beltway Plaza, Nottingham, (410) 668-5100, amerscafe.com,...

Pizza Angelo's Carry-Out 3600 Keswick Road, (410) 235-2595, angeloshampden.com, $ Best pizza in Hampden ...

Pub Grub Curb Shoppe Bar and Grill 5736 Falls Road, (410) 433-8299, curbshoppe.com, $ This neighborhood pub...

Russian Vernisage 1004 Reisterstown Road, Pikesville, (410) 484-7701, $$-$$$ With its glass chandeliers an...

Seafood Blue Sea Grill 614 Water St., (410) 837-7300, blueseagrill.com, $$$ A daily selection of "Fresh ...

Southern Charleston 1000 Lancaster St., (410) 332-7373, charlestonrestaurant.com, $$$ Somewhere along the l...

Spanish Pazo 1425 Aliceanna St., (410) 534-7296, pazorestaurant.com, $$$ If you don't leave Pazo a little ...

Thai Ban Thai 340 N. Charles St., (410) 727-7971, banthai.us, $$ Ban Thai is our favorite place to eave...

Upscale Comfort Food Ale Mary's 1939 Fleet St., (410) 276-2044, alemarys.com, $$ Kudos to Ale Mary's for celebrating th...

Vegetarian Liquid Earth 1626 Aliceanna St., (410) 276-6606, liquidearth.com, $$ We've appreciated the vegetar...

Vietnamese Baltimore Pho 1114 Hollins St., (410) 752-4746, baltimorepho.com, $$ Despite the downtrodden local...

Eat 2009

Posted 3/4/2009

Judy's Island Grill and Bake Shop

5216 Park Heights Ave., (410) 367-0272, judysislandgrill.com, $-$$

We keep meaning to check out this Jamaican carry-out spot's amazing breakfast menu--plantain porridge? butter bean and saltfish?--but its belly busting dinner options keep elbowing out the brain space that tries to remember to have Caribbean cuisine for breakfast. Instead, Judy's pitch-perfect jerk chicken--not too spicy, not too tangy--and whatever variety of fried fish is being offered is what the nose informs the tummy it wants. Throw in some sides of callaloo and rice, roasted yam, and fried plantains, and you're set for a splendid evening.

Mango and Coconut Juice Bar

222 N. Charles St., (410) 837-2626, $

Charles Plaza is seeing more foot traffic lately thanks to the much-needed Superfresh. Hopefully this will mean an uptick in business for the low-profile, but high quality eateries in the food court. Among them is Mango and Coconut, which serves familiar Caribbean favorites and fresh vegetable and fruit smoothies. The ubiquitous jerk is significantly cooled down, presumably for folks who need to head back to the office after lunch, which allows often-masked flavors like thyme and allspice to emerge. Even the usually anonymous bed of beans and rice have pleasant texture and are well-seasoned.

Penn Street Tavern

213 Penn St., (410) 752-5858, $-$$

This homey little corner pub in Ridgely's Delight serves alcohol and conversation up front and cheap, delicious Jamaican fare in the back. Staples such as jerk chicken, tilapia, and ox tail adhere to the long tradition of good Jamaican food served under this roof. The veggie medley, a hearty mix of okra, carrots, and other veggies in a coconut-milk base, is great. Grab a ginger beer, order some coco bread, some plantains, and start sampling.

West Indian Flavour

2111 McElderry St., (410) 522-0220, $

Step into this Indo-Caribbean carry-out and you're awash in compelling aromas, a result of the East Indian cuisine by way of Trinidad and Tobago that's served here. "Bus-up-shut" (slang for "busted up shirt," describing its appearance) is roti, a huge flatbread enclosing potatoes, peas, and your choice of stewed, curried, or jerk meat, while dhalpouri roti is made with ground chickpeas; the fillings explode with flavor and are perfectly cooked. Horizon-expanding specials include cow foot soup on Saturdays, and they carry locally made ice creams that specialize in West Indian flavors. Spicy means mega-spicy here, FYI.

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