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Eat Feature

French

Frank Klein
Bonaparte Breads

Eat Special Issue 2009

Cool Comfort EAT: City Paper's annual dining guide

Barbecue and Pit Andy Nelson's Barbecue 11007 York Road, Cockeysville, (410) 527-1226, andynelsonsbbq.com, $-$$ Whe...

Breakfast Blue Moon Café 1621 Aliceanna St., (410) 522-3940, $ For years, Blue Moon has been saving t...

Cafés Atwater's Belvedere Square Market, 529 E. Belvedere Ave., (410) 323-2396; 1425 Clarkview Road, Suit...

Caribbean Judy's Island Grill and Bake Shop 5216 Park Heights Ave., (410) 367-0272, judysislandgrill.com, $-$...

Chinese Grace Garden Chinese Restaurant 1690 Annapolis Road, Odenton, (410) 672-3581, gracegardenchinese.co...

Classic American Burke's Restaurant and Café 36 Light St., (410) 752-4189, burkescafe.com, $$-$$$ Burke's is n...

Contemporary American Abacrombie Fine Food and Accommodations 58 W. Biddle St., (410) 837-3630, abacrombie.net, $$$ Cork...

Delis Attman's Authentic New York Delicatessen 1019 E. Lombard St., (410) 563-2666, attmansdeli.com, $ N...

Diners Jimmy's Restaurant 801 S. Broadway, (410) 327-3273, $ A cornerstone of Fells Point, Jimmy's slings ...

Eclectic Golden West Café 1105 W. 36th St., (410) 889-8891, goldenwestcafe.com, $-$$ Baltimore has ple...

Ethiopian Dukem #2 1100 Maryland Ave., (410) 385-0318, dukemrestaurant.com, $-$$ Luckily, pretty much the on...

French Bonaparte Breads 903 S. Ann St., (410) 342-4000, $ This Fells Point bakery boasts a surprisingly e...

Hawaiian Roy's 720 Aliceanna St., (410) 659-0099, roysrestaurant.com, $$$ With so many fabulous local resta...

Indian and Nepalese Akbar 823 N. Charles St., (410) 539-0944, akbar-restaurant.com, $$ Akbar has the feel of a secret ...

Irish James Joyce Irish Pub and Restaurant 616 S. President St., (410) 727-5107, thejamesjoycepub.com, $$...

Italian Aldo's 306 S. High St., (410) 727-0700, aldositaly.com, $$$ "Sophisticated" and Little Italy don't...

Japanese Aloha Sushi 1218 N. Charles St., (443) 759-8531, $-$$ Everything about Aloha Sushi is just right...

Korean Joung Kak 18 W. 20th St., (410) 837-5231, $$ Its partisans will tell you this is the best Korean r...

Latin Arcos Restaurant and Bar 129 S. Broadway, (410) 522-4777, arcosrestaurante.com, $$ Because there's...

Mediterranean Black Olive 814 S. Bond St., (410) 276-7141, theblackolive.com, $$-$$$ Fells Point Greek restauran...

Middle Eastern Amer's Café 7624 Belair Road, Belair Beltway Plaza, Nottingham, (410) 668-5100, amerscafe.com,...

Pizza Angelo's Carry-Out 3600 Keswick Road, (410) 235-2595, angeloshampden.com, $ Best pizza in Hampden ...

Pub Grub Curb Shoppe Bar and Grill 5736 Falls Road, (410) 433-8299, curbshoppe.com, $ This neighborhood pub...

Russian Vernisage 1004 Reisterstown Road, Pikesville, (410) 484-7701, $$-$$$ With its glass chandeliers an...

Seafood Blue Sea Grill 614 Water St., (410) 837-7300, blueseagrill.com, $$$ A daily selection of "Fresh ...

Southern Charleston 1000 Lancaster St., (410) 332-7373, charlestonrestaurant.com, $$$ Somewhere along the l...

Spanish Pazo 1425 Aliceanna St., (410) 534-7296, pazorestaurant.com, $$$ If you don't leave Pazo a little ...

Thai Ban Thai 340 N. Charles St., (410) 727-7971, banthai.us, $$ Ban Thai is our favorite place to eave...

Upscale Comfort Food Ale Mary's 1939 Fleet St., (410) 276-2044, alemarys.com, $$ Kudos to Ale Mary's for celebrating th...

Vegetarian Liquid Earth 1626 Aliceanna St., (410) 276-6606, liquidearth.com, $$ We've appreciated the vegetar...

Vietnamese Baltimore Pho 1114 Hollins St., (410) 752-4746, baltimorepho.com, $$ Despite the downtrodden local...

Eat 2009

Posted 3/4/2009

Bonaparte Breads

903 S. Ann St., (410) 342-4000, $

This Fells Point bakery boasts a surprisingly expansive dining area with additional al fresco dining (weather permitting). Pastries are excellent--one would be hard-pressed to find a superior almond croissant--but Bonaparte also serves savory fare. A multitude of loaves and rolls of varying shapes, sizes, and crustiness are, of course, available, along with a selection of elegant sandwiches and light lunch options, usually salads and a quiche or tart or two. Sandwiches are beautifully constructed, but can be a tad skimpy on meat. The coffee is excellent, while the service is courteous if a bit terse.

Crêpe du Jour

1609 Sulgrave Ave., (410) 542-9000, crepedujour.com, $-$$

This charming Mount Washington crêperie offers a hearty dinner menu, but we prefer to stick to the affordable lunch menu. And the delicious lunch portions are more than succulent. The dessert crêpes are tasty, but the savory crêpes--featuring nicely balanced assortments of strong flavors such as bleu cheese with walnuts and mesclun or smoked salmon with cheese and tomato cream sauce--are divine.

Marie Louise Bistro

904 N. Charles St., (410) 385-9946, $$

The new enfant on the block in Baltimore's once-dead, recently-resurrected, and now again foundering French food scene is a gift to us hoi polloi. Here you can scratch your French home cooking itch with well-executed and thankfully un-messed-with classics like a complex and deeply satisfying bouillabaisse, dense and herby beef bourguignon, or superb duck confit, and almost everything is well under $20. The onion soup is outstanding; sandwiches are hefty and come with excellently crispy fries. Avoid the wan tomato sandwich. The space is gorgeous and waitstaff, though perhaps not the most expert, are earnest and friendly.

Petit Louis

4800 Roland Ave., (410) 366-9393, petitlouis.com, $$

The demise of Brasserie Tatin makes Petit Louis one of very few straight-up French restaurants in the city. Fortunately, for Francophiles and foodies, this Roland Park entry in the Cindy Wolf/Tony Foreman restaurant empire has lots to offer. Appetizers and light plates like escargots, paté, foie gras, quiche, and, our fave, the crispy eggplant Napoleon with chevre, just scream "Vive la France!" The entrées offer pitch-perfect preparations of duck and seafood and the best steak frites in town.

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