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Eat Feature

Indian and Nepalese

Jefferson Jackson Steele
Kabab Stop

Eat Special Issue 2009

Cool Comfort EAT: City Paper's annual dining guide

Barbecue and Pit Andy Nelson's Barbecue 11007 York Road, Cockeysville, (410) 527-1226, andynelsonsbbq.com, $-$$ Whe...

Breakfast Blue Moon Café 1621 Aliceanna St., (410) 522-3940, $ For years, Blue Moon has been saving t...

Cafés Atwater's Belvedere Square Market, 529 E. Belvedere Ave., (410) 323-2396; 1425 Clarkview Road, Suit...

Caribbean Judy's Island Grill and Bake Shop 5216 Park Heights Ave., (410) 367-0272, judysislandgrill.com, $-$...

Chinese Grace Garden Chinese Restaurant 1690 Annapolis Road, Odenton, (410) 672-3581, gracegardenchinese.co...

Classic American Burke's Restaurant and Café 36 Light St., (410) 752-4189, burkescafe.com, $$-$$$ Burke's is n...

Contemporary American Abacrombie Fine Food and Accommodations 58 W. Biddle St., (410) 837-3630, abacrombie.net, $$$ Cork...

Delis Attman's Authentic New York Delicatessen 1019 E. Lombard St., (410) 563-2666, attmansdeli.com, $ N...

Diners Jimmy's Restaurant 801 S. Broadway, (410) 327-3273, $ A cornerstone of Fells Point, Jimmy's slings ...

Eclectic Golden West Café 1105 W. 36th St., (410) 889-8891, goldenwestcafe.com, $-$$ Baltimore has ple...

Ethiopian Dukem #2 1100 Maryland Ave., (410) 385-0318, dukemrestaurant.com, $-$$ Luckily, pretty much the on...

French Bonaparte Breads 903 S. Ann St., (410) 342-4000, $ This Fells Point bakery boasts a surprisingly e...

Hawaiian Roy's 720 Aliceanna St., (410) 659-0099, roysrestaurant.com, $$$ With so many fabulous local resta...

Indian and Nepalese Akbar 823 N. Charles St., (410) 539-0944, akbar-restaurant.com, $$ Akbar has the feel of a secret ...

Irish James Joyce Irish Pub and Restaurant 616 S. President St., (410) 727-5107, thejamesjoycepub.com, $$...

Italian Aldo's 306 S. High St., (410) 727-0700, aldositaly.com, $$$ "Sophisticated" and Little Italy don't...

Japanese Aloha Sushi 1218 N. Charles St., (443) 759-8531, $-$$ Everything about Aloha Sushi is just right...

Korean Joung Kak 18 W. 20th St., (410) 837-5231, $$ Its partisans will tell you this is the best Korean r...

Latin Arcos Restaurant and Bar 129 S. Broadway, (410) 522-4777, arcosrestaurante.com, $$ Because there's...

Mediterranean Black Olive 814 S. Bond St., (410) 276-7141, theblackolive.com, $$-$$$ Fells Point Greek restauran...

Middle Eastern Amer's Café 7624 Belair Road, Belair Beltway Plaza, Nottingham, (410) 668-5100, amerscafe.com,...

Pizza Angelo's Carry-Out 3600 Keswick Road, (410) 235-2595, angeloshampden.com, $ Best pizza in Hampden ...

Pub Grub Curb Shoppe Bar and Grill 5736 Falls Road, (410) 433-8299, curbshoppe.com, $ This neighborhood pub...

Russian Vernisage 1004 Reisterstown Road, Pikesville, (410) 484-7701, $$-$$$ With its glass chandeliers an...

Seafood Blue Sea Grill 614 Water St., (410) 837-7300, blueseagrill.com, $$$ A daily selection of "Fresh ...

Southern Charleston 1000 Lancaster St., (410) 332-7373, charlestonrestaurant.com, $$$ Somewhere along the l...

Spanish Pazo 1425 Aliceanna St., (410) 534-7296, pazorestaurant.com, $$$ If you don't leave Pazo a little ...

Thai Ban Thai 340 N. Charles St., (410) 727-7971, banthai.us, $$ Ban Thai is our favorite place to eave...

Upscale Comfort Food Ale Mary's 1939 Fleet St., (410) 276-2044, alemarys.com, $$ Kudos to Ale Mary's for celebrating th...

Vegetarian Liquid Earth 1626 Aliceanna St., (410) 276-6606, liquidearth.com, $$ We've appreciated the vegetar...

Vietnamese Baltimore Pho 1114 Hollins St., (410) 752-4746, baltimorepho.com, $$ Despite the downtrodden local...

Eat 2009

Posted 3/4/2009

Akbar

823 N. Charles St., (410) 539-0944, akbar-restaurant.com, $$

Akbar has the feel of a secret place. It's not, of course. The yellowish awning over the Mount Vernon basement space has been a fixture for more than 25 years. They know what they're doing here: it's quiet inside, elegant, almost, and the staff will make you feel like a regular even on your first trip. Keema naan to start (lamb-stuffed flatbread), then tandoori shrimp, and/or anything korma, with that rich coconut sauce that makes everything tender and smooth.

Ambassador Dining Room

3811 Canterbury Road, (410) 366-1484, ambassadordiningroom.com, $$

The Ambassador Dining Room is one of few restaurants in the city that makes you feel like you're dining at a pastoral estate. The tranquility of the restaurant is partly due to its Tuscany-Canterbury location. When the weather's nice, the glass terrace doors are opened on to a well-kept garden. Far from pretentious, though, guests are a diverse set, dressed in everything from their Sunday best to jeans. The optimum time to go is on Sunday for brunch. Northern Indian treats like samosas are paired with brunch favorites and bottomless mimosas, all served buffet style.

India Rasoi

411 S. High St., (410) 385-4900, india-rasoi.com, $$

Though the décor of this little rowhouse restaurant is a bit bland, that's certainly no reflection of the food that comes out of the kitchen. Sauces are the hallmark of really good Indian food, and at this Little Italy mainstay rich, spicy masalas and vindaloos, and tangy chutneys and raitas dress tender cubes of chicken, beef, or lamb. Creamy, sweet kormas complement peas and veggie dumplings. And fiery curries bring out the best in fish and shrimp. A winner every time we visit.

Indigma

802 N. Charles St., (410) 605-1212, indigmarestaurant.com, $$

What does modern, innovative Indian cooking taste like? A lot like what you'll find at Indigma: open-face samosas, rich three-cheese saag paneer, naan spiked with ginger. Portions can appear small, but their richness often makes them more than filling. The snug dining room with its swaths of red and gold fabric gets points for encouraging romance.

Kabab Stop

5719 Falls Road, (410) 323-6060, kabab-stop.com, $

This Mount Washington pit-stop offering simple, hearty Indian food is better for carry-out than a sit-down in its austere restaurant. Order containers of perfect jasmine rice, rich sauces, moist chicken and lamb, and foil-wrapped chewy naan. Entrées come with a fresh vegetable salad of chick peas, peppers, and onions--a nice accompaniment to the creamy sauces and tasty carbs.

Kumari Restaurant and Bar

911 N. Charles St., (410) 547-1600, $$

Nepalese cuisine is supposed to be like a cross between Indian and Afghan--two other choices bountiful along this stretch of Charles Street. Kumari does most of its work in the tandoor, or creamily-kormaed, very Indian style. The crispy breads are a real treat, and if the service can be a little slow, it's always friendly. While you're waiting, you can enjoy a beer and observe the street scene outside the big front window.

MemSahib

400 W. Lexington St., (410) 576-7777, memsahibrestaurant.com, $$

If you're in the Lexington Market area and need a break from the bustle of downtown, step into MemSahib. You'll feel like you've been transported miles from the city streets and apocalypse cautioners outside when you enter the opulent, tranquil dining room of this Indian restaurant. The lunch buffet offers a wide variety of dishes from the usual chicken tikka masala to the unexpected, like stuffed okra. Definitely get the kheer, rice pudding with cardamom and almonds for dessert.

Mughal Garden

918 N. Charles St., (410) 547-0001, $-$$

One of many fine Indian restaurants in Mount Vernon, Mughal Garden doesn't get much love. Sure the interior felt dated years ago, but if you're going to eat the food instead of soak up the ambience, Mughal has a lot to recommend it. The lunch buffet, for example, offers a wider and more consistent variety than its competitors, ensuring that everyone in a large party--say the editorial staff of a newspaper--can find something delicious to eat.

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