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Eat Feature

Vietnamese

Frank Klein
Baltimore Pho

Eat Special Issue 2009

Cool Comfort EAT: City Paper's annual dining guide

Barbecue and Pit Andy Nelson's Barbecue 11007 York Road, Cockeysville, (410) 527-1226, andynelsonsbbq.com, $-$$ Whe...

Breakfast Blue Moon Café 1621 Aliceanna St., (410) 522-3940, $ For years, Blue Moon has been saving t...

Cafés Atwater's Belvedere Square Market, 529 E. Belvedere Ave., (410) 323-2396; 1425 Clarkview Road, Suit...

Caribbean Judy's Island Grill and Bake Shop 5216 Park Heights Ave., (410) 367-0272, judysislandgrill.com, $-$...

Chinese Grace Garden Chinese Restaurant 1690 Annapolis Road, Odenton, (410) 672-3581, gracegardenchinese.co...

Classic American Burke's Restaurant and Café 36 Light St., (410) 752-4189, burkescafe.com, $$-$$$ Burke's is n...

Contemporary American Abacrombie Fine Food and Accommodations 58 W. Biddle St., (410) 837-3630, abacrombie.net, $$$ Cork...

Delis Attman's Authentic New York Delicatessen 1019 E. Lombard St., (410) 563-2666, attmansdeli.com, $ N...

Diners Jimmy's Restaurant 801 S. Broadway, (410) 327-3273, $ A cornerstone of Fells Point, Jimmy's slings ...

Eclectic Golden West Café 1105 W. 36th St., (410) 889-8891, goldenwestcafe.com, $-$$ Baltimore has ple...

Ethiopian Dukem #2 1100 Maryland Ave., (410) 385-0318, dukemrestaurant.com, $-$$ Luckily, pretty much the on...

French Bonaparte Breads 903 S. Ann St., (410) 342-4000, $ This Fells Point bakery boasts a surprisingly e...

Hawaiian Roy's 720 Aliceanna St., (410) 659-0099, roysrestaurant.com, $$$ With so many fabulous local resta...

Indian and Nepalese Akbar 823 N. Charles St., (410) 539-0944, akbar-restaurant.com, $$ Akbar has the feel of a secret ...

Irish James Joyce Irish Pub and Restaurant 616 S. President St., (410) 727-5107, thejamesjoycepub.com, $$...

Italian Aldo's 306 S. High St., (410) 727-0700, aldositaly.com, $$$ "Sophisticated" and Little Italy don't...

Japanese Aloha Sushi 1218 N. Charles St., (443) 759-8531, $-$$ Everything about Aloha Sushi is just right...

Korean Joung Kak 18 W. 20th St., (410) 837-5231, $$ Its partisans will tell you this is the best Korean r...

Latin Arcos Restaurant and Bar 129 S. Broadway, (410) 522-4777, arcosrestaurante.com, $$ Because there's...

Mediterranean Black Olive 814 S. Bond St., (410) 276-7141, theblackolive.com, $$-$$$ Fells Point Greek restauran...

Middle Eastern Amer's Café 7624 Belair Road, Belair Beltway Plaza, Nottingham, (410) 668-5100, amerscafe.com,...

Pizza Angelo's Carry-Out 3600 Keswick Road, (410) 235-2595, angeloshampden.com, $ Best pizza in Hampden ...

Pub Grub Curb Shoppe Bar and Grill 5736 Falls Road, (410) 433-8299, curbshoppe.com, $ This neighborhood pub...

Russian Vernisage 1004 Reisterstown Road, Pikesville, (410) 484-7701, $$-$$$ With its glass chandeliers an...

Seafood Blue Sea Grill 614 Water St., (410) 837-7300, blueseagrill.com, $$$ A daily selection of "Fresh ...

Southern Charleston 1000 Lancaster St., (410) 332-7373, charlestonrestaurant.com, $$$ Somewhere along the l...

Spanish Pazo 1425 Aliceanna St., (410) 534-7296, pazorestaurant.com, $$$ If you don't leave Pazo a little ...

Thai Ban Thai 340 N. Charles St., (410) 727-7971, banthai.us, $$ Ban Thai is our favorite place to eave...

Upscale Comfort Food Ale Mary's 1939 Fleet St., (410) 276-2044, alemarys.com, $$ Kudos to Ale Mary's for celebrating th...

Vegetarian Liquid Earth 1626 Aliceanna St., (410) 276-6606, liquidearth.com, $$ We've appreciated the vegetar...

Vietnamese Baltimore Pho 1114 Hollins St., (410) 752-4746, baltimorepho.com, $$ Despite the downtrodden local...

Eat 2009

Posted 3/4/2009

Baltimore Pho

1114 Hollins St., (410) 752-4746, baltimorepho.com, $$

Despite the downtrodden locale next to Hollins Market, Baltimore Pho qualifies as a date restaurant. You walk through the doors and are greeted by gracious professionalism of the staff, delicious and distinctive food and drink on the table, and a smart red-white-and-black décor all around you. Your date will be amazed that such delicacies as the signature Vietnamese noodle, broth, and you-pick-the-rest dish can be found in so tough a neighborhood.

Pho Huong Moi

6901 Security Blvd. #3042, Windsor Mill, (410) 944-8623, phohuongmoi.com, $

Pho Huong Moi now occupies the same space that the beloved Miss Pho used to. And Huong Moi's pho is every bit as filling as its predecessor's, coming in two sizes--regular, which is big, and large, which is mammoth--with all the accompanying goodies: bean sprouts, thin sliced jalapenos, mint sprigs, lime wedges, and tray of various hot sauces already sitting on the table. But it's also added a few new wrinkles to the menu, such as weekly specials and bun dishes, those tasty bowls of noodles and toppings that go so well with a Vietnamese coffee.

Pho Nam

6477 Baltimore National Pike, catonsville, (410) 455-6000, $

This strip-mall eatery is still largely unknown by even phofanatics, who tend to gravitate south toward Columbia and D.C. to get their fix. But the iconic noodle soup served here is easily among the best anywhere, with a bafflingly flavorful, nourishing, almost refreshing clear broth that smells of cinnamon and anise but tastes of focused beefy savoriness. Meat and toppings are generous, and the noodles are more tender than usual while retaining pleasant resilience. Prices are ludicrously low--an order of spring rolls, a bowl of pho, and a Vietnamese iced coffee comes to less than $10.

Saigon Remembered

5857 York Road, (410) 435-1200, $-$$

Still the only proper Vietnamese restaurant in the city, Saigon Remembered serves home-style clay pot rice, grilled meat, stew, and noodle dishes making it a favorite for years. But it's the large selection of creative summer rolls (meat, vegetable, and noodle rolls in tender, stretchy rice and tapioca wrapping paper) that we can't stop eating. Service is always prompt and friendly, and proximity to the Senator makes it an ideal pre-flick stop.

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