But, as the poet Cavafy reminds us, it is not the destination that counts, but the journey. And journey we didall around the Baltimore Beltway, up and down interstates 95 and 83, into the heart of the city and out into the suburbs, to compile this exit-by-exit guide to pulling off and eating out. (Speaking of mythical creatures, can someone please tell us what happened to Beltway Exit 37? It doesn't seem to exist.) And what did we find? A treasure-trove of restaurants, chic bistros cheek-by-jowl with bona fide dives, ethnic eateries perched next to joints unique to the shores of the Chesapeake Bay. We discovered new places, grand and small; revisited old, familiar haunts; sought out the gustatory delights that beckon from beyond the ubiquitous fast-food and chain joints hard by the highway, to bring you this driver's tour of culinary Baltimore circa 2000.
Given the scope of our task, we acknowledge that what follows is an incomplete look at dining where the Beltway deposits youa blurry snapshot taken from a fast-moving car, if you will, sketchy on some of the details (a handful of exits aren't represented) but, we hope, capturing the big picture intact. There are plenty of worthwhile restaurants in these parts that aren't mentioned herein, many of them places we've touted in years past and will no doubt tout again in years future. If you think we've missed something crucial, let usand, more important, let our readersknow about it. In the meantime, we hope we've captured a few of your favorites, encouraged you to try some-place new, perhaps tempted you to visit a part of the region you've only sped through before. Be loyal, embrace change, eat hearty. And happy motoring.
Eat 2000 was written by Susan Fradkin, with contributions from Michael Anft, Lee Gardner, Michelle Gienow, Heather Joslyn, Andy Markowitz, and Tom Scocca. Richard Gorelick and Jill Sebra provided invaluable editorial assistance. Roadside and Beltway-sign photographs by Jefferson Jackson Steele; Restaurant photographs by John Davis Jr. Special thanks to our model, "Chef" Lewis Feldman.
812 Park Ave.
Baltimore, MD 21201