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Eat Feature

Exits 13/14

Frederick Road / Edmondson Avenue, Catonsville / Ellicott City

John Davis Jr.
Exit 14/15: Indian Delite

Eat Special Issue 2000

Drive Through Introduction

Exit 2 Route 10, Severna Park

Exit 3 Governor Ritchie Highway, Brooklyn / Glen Burnie

Exit 4 Interstate 97, Annapolis

Exit 6 Route 170, Linthicum

Exit 7 Baltimore - Washington Parkway, uh, Baltimore / Washington

Exit 8 Hammonds Ferry Road, Linthicum

Exit 11 Interstate 95, Downtown Baltimore

Exit 12 Wilkens Avenue, Baltimore / Arbutus

Exits 13/14 Frederick Road / Edmondson Avenue, Catonsville / Ellicott City

Exit 15 Baltimore National Pike, Catonsville / Ellicott City

Exit 16 Interstate 70, Columbia

Exit 17 Security Boulevard, Woodlawn

Exit 18 Liberty Road, Lochearn / Randallstown

Exit 19 Northwest Expressway, Reisterstown / Westminster

Exit 20 Reisterstown Road, Northwest Baltimore / Pikesville / Owings Mills

Exit 21 Park Heights Avenue, Northwest Baltimore

Exit 22 Greenspring Avenue, Pikesville

Exit 23 Interstate 83 South, Baltimore

Exit 24 Interstate 83 North, Timonium / Cockeysville

Exit 25 Charles Street, Towson / Lutherville

Exit 26 York Road, Downtown Towson

Exit 27 Dulaney Valley Road, Towson

Exit 28 Providence Road, Towson

Exit 29 Cromwell Bridge Road, Towson

Exit 30 Perring Parkway, Northeast Baltimore / Parkville

Exit 31 Harford Road, Northeast Baltimore / Parkville

Exit 32 Belair Road, Northeast Baltimore / Perry Hall

Exit 33 Interstate 95, White Marsh and Points North

Exits 34/35 Pulaski Highway / Philadelphia Road, Rosedale

Exit 36 Southeast Boulevard, Essex / Middle River

Exit 38 Route 150/Eastern Avenue, Essex / East Baltimore

Exits 39/40 North Point Boulevard / Merritt Boulevard, Dundalk

Exits 41/42 Cove Road / North Point Boulevard, Dundalk / Edgemere

Eat 2000

Posted 2/23/2000

Festooned with Indian print cloths and Taj Mahal photos to obscure its spartan strip-center surroundings, Indian Delite (622 Frederick Road, Catonsville, [410] 744-4422) is predictable in its selection but never disappointing in its flavors. The lunch buffet is a great way to explore: graze through rich, saucy vegetable preparations, sag paneer (spinach and cheese, healthy and addictive), and that strangely red-hued tandoori chicken cut in pieces that don't seem native to the bird but taste good just the same. Sip a cup of hot, spicy tea, redolent with cloves and cinnamon, and you might even forget you're in downtown Catonsville.

You've driven past it a hundred times and seen the big, historic cars parked in the drive out front. Maybe the folks got you dressed up and took you there as a kid. Well, these days dinner's usually on you, but for a special occasion, there's still a good time to be had at the Candle Light Inn (1835 Frederick Road, Catonsville, [410] 788-6076). Set amid woods a bit west of the Fred Road strip, the Candle Light still offers fine food and slick service, and nowadays there are offerings to appeal to the hipster in you as well as to your Aunt Gladys. You'll pay for the privilege, of course (unless you come for the reasonable early-bird dinner), but the post-meal walk in the moonlight is free.

Locals refer to it as the Nine Mile House, and Dimitri's (2205 Frederick Road, Ellicott City, [410] 747-1927) is definitely the locals' joint, in glaring contrast to the upscale places catering to antique-hunting hordes on Ellicott City's Main Street. This roadhouse (perched, fittingly, at a bend in the road) is jammed with folks ordering from a menu that emphasizes not just Greek but Italian, American, and German dishes as well. Think dolmades followed by sour beef and dumplings. Or crab cakes with linguine. For a classic visit, order Dimitri's classic sandwich, the Beef-Ke-Bob.

A true cheap-eats delight awaits at the Trolley Stop (6 Oella Ave., Ellicott City, [410] 465-8546), a historic former inn at the gateway to historic Ellicott City. You can get the usual salads, soups, and sandwiches in the grubby-chic downstairs tavern, but the top floor boasts a pretty dining room, and there are nightly specials (lobster, prime rib, swordfish) that weigh in at under $10. Everything is fresh and homemade, from soups to desserts.

Just a few steps from one of old Ellicott City's thronged antique malls, Tersiguel's (8293 Main St., Ellicott City, [410] 465-4004) is an oasis of civility and calm, an intimate, candle-lit converted rowhouse that's perfect for a romantic dinner a deux. Sip on something your server recommends from the wine cellar, nibble on the house-smoked salmon, and relish some of the region's finest French country cooking. It'll cost you, to be sure, but then you'd just blow the money on some junk at the antique mall, so enjoy.

If the word "tavern" conjures up an image of grungy rusticity, you're in the wrong place, Bubba. The Mill Towne Tavern (3733 Old Columbia Pike, Ellicott City, [410] 480-0894) is a perfect special-occasion place (with mostly normal-occasion prices). The menu is inventive and eclectic; the chef makes the most of seasonal ingredients, with an emphasis on light and fresh. Oh, he'll grill you a prime piece of meat, but see what he can do with the seafood. The 19th-century building has been lovingly restored, which is how you'll feel after your repast.

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