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Eat Feature

Exit 19

Northwest Expressway, Reisterstown / Westminster

John Davis Jr.
Exit 19: Harryman House

Eat Special Issue 2000

Drive Through Introduction

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Eat 2000

Posted 2/23/2000

A recent renovation has enlarged Harryman House (340 Main St., Reisterstown, [410] 833-8850) at the expense of some of the woodsy charm, but you can still ensconce yourself on the porch (if there's an open table), have a cocktail with your roasted-oyster or mushroom-fricassee appetizer, and settle in for the main meal event. The entrées are mostly New American, but we have a predilection for the more old-fashioned duck breast with fruited sauce, or Harryman's outstanding steaks.

When it's pickin' time (fruit-pickin', not crab-pickin'), you can roam the shed attached to Baugher's Restaurant (289 W. Main St., Westminster [410] 848-7413) and select bounty from the Baugher clan's own orchards—or homemade pies constructed from same. Inside the large, plain dining rooms, settle in with farm families from Carroll County and city folk like yourself to enjoy home cooking, from chicken-fried steak to roast beef or turkey with all the trimmings. We'll help ourselves to a heaping platter of fried chicken livers, a head-on cholesterol collision that's worth the risk. You definitely want to have the pie à la mode, since ice cream is what started the Baugher's hullabaloo years ago.

In deference to its largely white-haired clientele, Rudy's 2900 (2900 Baltimore Blvd., Finksburg, [410] 833-5777) offers a lot of heart-healthy entrées (fish and seafood), but we suspect anyone venturing out here is going Continental, fat and calories be damned. Start with oysters Brittany, perhaps, or seafood sausage. Move on to hearts of palm with watercress and duck breast. Sit back in full expectation for roast rack of lamb, tournedos with morels and Madeira cream, or roast duckling with plum sauce. Desserts are beautiful but, frankly, by this point in the meal, we can only sip coffee and groan.

Maggie's Restaurant (310 E. Green St., Westminster, [410] 876-6868) does down-home casual with an urbane twist in downtown Westminster, drawing crowds for American standards like crab cakes and Continental creations like veal Madeira and chicken champagne. Just the place to revive after fatiguing yourself at the Carroll County Farm Museum.

Tucked so far into a strip mall that you'll need a treasure map to find it, big, open Scotto's Restaurant (521 Jermor Lane [140 Village Shopping Center], Westminster, [410] 876-6303) is a monument to light, simple, affordable Italian cooking. There's a come-as-you-are joviality about the place, especially when you're tucking into delicate manicotti, luscious lasagne, and good bread. You can find more elaborate offerings, especially at dinner, and we're sure they're good; it's just that we tend not to mess with perfection.

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