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Eat Feature

Exit 24

Interstate 83 North, Timonium / Cockeysville

John Davis Jr.
Exit 24: Windy Valley

Eat Special Issue 2000

Drive Through Introduction

Exit 2 Route 10, Severna Park

Exit 3 Governor Ritchie Highway, Brooklyn / Glen Burnie

Exit 4 Interstate 97, Annapolis

Exit 6 Route 170, Linthicum

Exit 7 Baltimore - Washington Parkway, uh, Baltimore / Washington

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Exit 11 Interstate 95, Downtown Baltimore

Exit 12 Wilkens Avenue, Baltimore / Arbutus

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Exit 16 Interstate 70, Columbia

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Exit 21 Park Heights Avenue, Northwest Baltimore

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Exit 23 Interstate 83 South, Baltimore

Exit 24 Interstate 83 North, Timonium / Cockeysville

Exit 25 Charles Street, Towson / Lutherville

Exit 26 York Road, Downtown Towson

Exit 27 Dulaney Valley Road, Towson

Exit 28 Providence Road, Towson

Exit 29 Cromwell Bridge Road, Towson

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Exits 41/42 Cove Road / North Point Boulevard, Dundalk / Edgemere

Eat 2000

Posted 2/23/2000

With its many flavors of ice cream and gelato, Windy Valley (2346 W. Joppa Road, Timonium, [410] 339-3900) makes for an appealing roadside stop on a summer day, although you may find yourself cooling your heels in line. But any time's a good time to pull over for this general store/eatery's homemade soups, hearty sandwiches, and old-fashioned subs. If the weather's nice and you can enjoy your repast as a picnic, all the better.

When you just can't decide where to go, go to Harvey's (2360 W. Joppa Road, Timonium, [410] 296-9526). There's something to please everyone, from noshers to big eaters, vegans to carnivores, plain eaters to epicures. Many patrons go for their favorite dish and never venture beyond it; others try something new each time. We like the calorie-conscious dinners, which taste high-cal, and the variety of wines.

One of our favorite haunts along the vast, generally charmless York Road strip is the very charming J.J.'s Everyday Café (2141 York Road, Timonium, [410] 308-2700). The ambiance is ladies' tea room, the food bistro chic, running the gamut from no-frills to some pretty wild pasta and fresh-fish dishes. We're always in the mood for one of J.J.'s soups (especially any of the seafood bisques) or the simple, delectable fried rainbow trout with fries and slaw. We've tried the place out on the pickiest eaters we know and have never seen anyone leave disappointed.

A theme restaurant that doesn't quite live up to its Irish-pub image, An Poitin Stil (2323 York Road, Timonium, [410] 560-7900) does offer some authentic grub amid a largely upscale menu: shepherd's pie, corned beef and cabbage, and a whale of an Irish stew (made with a whole lamb shank). Folks flock here (and we mean flock) for Guinness poured from a state-of-the-art tap system, so come early if you want to get a table and/or have a conversation. If your voice is drowned out by meal's end, put your mouth to good use working through a slice of fine bread pudding.

Wanna eat some Sopranos-style food but don't want to pay through the nose? Fazzini's Italian Kitchen (578 Cranbrook Road [Cranbrook Shopping Center], Cockeysville, [410] 667-6104) has an offer you can't refuse. Several of them, actually: a pound (a pound!) of homemade pasta with your choice of seven different sauces; toothsome parmigiana dishes in a fresh-tasting tomato sauce and generous cheese; terrific soups and salads. City Paper's reigning Best Italian Restaurant also bakes up designer focaccia, and garlic breads that look like you made them at home (but probably taste better). If you have any room left after pounding down all that pasta, cheesecake, cannoli, and other delectables beckon.

Some pretty fancy gourmet dinners are going for pretty plain prices at the Artful Palate (10517 York Road, Cockeysville, [410] 683-3303), a former sub shop by the side of York Road. "Artful" indeed describes the unusual soups and sauces and the creative presentations of dishes such as apricot-teriyaki salmon fillet or pasta with sun-dried tomatoes, olives, snow peas, and artichoke hearts. Desserts measure up to the main meal's promise, making the Palate a prime candidate for a special night out on an everyday budget.

For a special night out on a shoot-your-wad budget, there's the Oregon Grille (1201 Shawan Road, Hunt Valley, [410] 771-0505). A beautifully restored stone structure at the entrance to Oregon Ridge, surrounded by gardens and paths that look bereft without a wedding party, the Grille has a semi-formal dining room (jackets required, gents) and a kitchen to match. Meats and seafood are its forte, combined in inventive ways and served with style. For that big toast, there's an extensive—if, natch, pricey—wine list.

Set amid rolling countryside on land claimed in the 17th century by the third Lord Baltimore, the Manor Tavern (15819 Old York Road, Monkton, [410] 771-8155) reeks of horsy-set elegance; the place was even a stable in olden days, housing the steeds of visitors to the long-gone Slade's Tavern across the street. (George Washington's horse slept here.) The hay's been cleared out to make way for a prettified dining room serving Continental cuisine; there's also a more casual (and casually priced) menu, best enjoyed in the sunroom or terrace garden during the warmer months.

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