Sign up for our newsletters   

Baltimore City Paper home.
Print Email

Eat Feature

C is for Carry-out

DiPasquale's · Cosmos · Rotisseria · Chow Mein Charlie's · Chokchai · Thairish · Caribbean Kitchen · Viccino's · Michaelangelo's · The Roost

Jefferson Jackson Steele

Eat Special Issue 1999

Alphabet Soup We know where we like to go for a good burger--and we'll bet you do too. Or a good omelet. Or a good...

A is for Appetizers The Helmand · Café Madrid · Henninger's Tavern · Café Zen · Grand Palace · Morgan Millard · Al Pacino Café · Sarah's Café · Iola Café

B is for Breakfast Jimmy's · Blue Moon Café · Golden West Café · Morning Edition Café · Helen's Garden Café · Hull Street Blues Café · Loco Hombre · Weber's on Boston · Suburban House

C is for Carry-out DiPasquale's · Cosmos · Rotisseria · Chow Mein Charlie's · Chokchai · Thairish · Caribbean Kitchen · Viccino's · Michaelangelo's · The Roost

D is for Dessert Vaccaro's · Cheesecake Factory · Adrian's Book Café · Moxley's · Louie's Bookstore Café · Coney Island

E is for Expensive Charleston · The Black Olive · Milton Inn · Polo Grill · Chart House · Oregon Grille

F is for Frugal Pete's Grill · Trolley Stop · Fazzini's Italian Kitchen · jr. · Rallo's · Mamie's Café · Caribbean Food Carry Out · Silk Road Café · Frisco Burritos · Winterling's · Valley View Inn · Fresh

G is for Guilty Pleasures Anne's Dari-Creme · Howard's Delly · Maria D's · Johnny Rockets · Thrasher's · Steak Out Express · New System Bakery · Krispy Kreme

H is for Happy Hour The Brewer's Art · Mick O'Shea's · Brass Elephant · Speakeasy Saloon · Calvert House · Nick's Inner Harbor Seafood Co.

I is for Incendiary Sushi Café · Ko Hyang · Joung Kak · Thai Landing · Sisson's · Café Tattoo · Austin Grill

J is for Java Needful Things · The Hidden Bean · City Café · Donna's · Empire Café · Xando · The Daily Grind

K is for Kids Friendly Farm · Hacienda Mexican Restaurant · Fuddruckers · Overlea Diner · Funk's Democratic Coffee House and Bistro · Mount Vernon Stable and Saloon

L is for Lunch Women's Industrial Exchange · Sascha's Daily · Mughal Garden · Akbar · Bombay Grill · Nate's and Leon's · Snyder's Cafe and Deli

M is for Meat Prime Rib · Shula's Steakhouse · Ruth's Chris Steak House · Alonso's · The Crease · Bill Bateman's · Lenny's · Attman's · Boomerang Pub

N is for New School Joy America Café · Spike and Charlie's · Sotta Sopra · La Tavola · Opa! · Viccino Bistro · Café Pangea

O is for Old School Haussner's · Tio Pepe's · Ikaros · Acropolis · Bo Brooks · Forest Diner · Angelina's · Kawasaki · Thai Restaurant · Perring Place Restaurant · Sanders Corner · Sabatino's · Matthew's Pizzaria 

P is for Pub Grub Peter's Inn · Simon's Pub · Duda's · Sobo Café · Koco's Pub · Kisling's · McCabe's · Dougherty's Pub · Charles Village Pub

Q is for Quirks Holy Frijoles · Ye Olde Malt Shoppe/Earl's Beauty Inn · Tamber's Nifty Fifties Dining · Captain James Landing

R is for Romantic Corks · Pierpoint · Banjara · Ambassador Dining Room · Tersiguel's

S is for Seafood Gunning's Crab House · Gunning's Seafood Restaurant · Faidley's Seafood · Legal Sea Foods · John Steven Ltd. · Anne Arundel Seafood · G&M Restaurant · Mo's Fisherman's Exchange · Bill's Terrace Inn · Bay Caf

T is for Tourists Waterfront · Hollywood Diner · Café Hon · Obrycki's · Bertha's · Lista's · McCormick and Schmick's · Wharf Rat · Gallery Sandwich Shoppe · Hard Rock Café · Planet Hollywood · ESPN Zone

U is for United Nations Restaurant · Silk Road · Braznell's Caribbean Kitchen · Orchard Market and Café · Ze Mean Bean Café · Saigon · House of Kabob · Desert Café · Restaurante San Luis · Little Havana · Café

V is for Vegetarian Golden Temple · Liquid Earth · One World Café · Wild Mushroom · Puffins · Sin Carne · Village Market

W is for Worth the Drive Captain Billy's · Captain John's · Cantler's Riverside Inn · Gabler's · Baugher's Family Restaurant · Rudy's 2900 · Olney Ale House

X is for XXL New No Da Ji · The Yellow Bowl · Micah's Cafeteria · Cactus Willie's

Y is for Yeast Baltimore Brewing Company · Big Sky Bread Co. · Stone Mill Bakery · Ellicott Mills Brewing Company · Capitol City Brewing Co.

Z is for ZZZ Sip & Bite · Double T Diner · Valentino's · Star Light Diner · Bel-Loc Diner · Gampy's · Nam Kang

Posted 2/24/1999

We're hard-pressed to find a more truly gourmet carry-out pleasure than that afforded by DiPasquale's (3700 Gough St., [410] 276-6787). Enter this Highlandtown institution, turn right just past the register, and proceed to the deli counter for a staggering selection of pasta, vegetable, and seafood salads, monstro sandwiches, hefty entrées, fresh breads, and assorted other items to make your takeaway meal--be it a desk lunch, a TV dinner, or a summer picnic--something special. (Of course, you always have the option of repairing with your booty to the dining nook in the rear of the store.) Just don't do DiPasquale's if you're in a big hurry--if you're like us, you'll want to linger at the deli case while making up your mind.

It's a long way from Greektown, but unassuming Cosmos (5427-29 Harford Road, [410] 426-2775) dishes up some of the most satisfying souvlaki in town--and trust us, we know our souvlaki. Imagine: tender chunks of pork and sauteed onions, peppers, and tomatoes stuffed into a warm pita, slathered with tzatziki sauce, and studded with Greek olives. So what if the tzatziki tastes more like cucumbers and sour cream than cucumbers and yogurt? Add fries and Greek salad and you have a platter worthy of the Olympian gods, at a price mortals can afford. Greek and Italian specialties, a full range of subs, and pretty good pizza make the drive up or down Harford Road worth your while.

At Rotisseria (219 S. Broadway, [410] 563-3712), a literal hole-in-the-wall on the approach to Fells Point, we stand mesmerized by the trussed, rosemary-flecked chickens rotating on a spit over hardwood charcoal. This is how the joint began, years back--those crispy, moist birds, beans and rice, fried yucca instead of fried spuds. The menu swings more toward Italian now (this being the carry-out component of Germano's of Little Italy), but you can still get that chicken bagged to go with sides of yucca, plantains, beans and rice, plus a small plastic cup of incendiary green sauce. Expect some of those colorful Fells Point characters to stop in while you're waiting. Grab a stool, inhale mouth- watering aromas, and enjoy the show.

Chow Mein Charlie's (508 W. Cold Spring Lane, [410] 889-8886) has the best steamed dumplings in all of Baltimore. The fried ones aren't bad either, and pretty much everything you order from this Roland Park carry-out goes above and beyond the call of duty. The egg rolls are extra plump, the shrimp toast almost sickeningly rich, and the cold sesame noodles as thick as your finger. But you won't want to go overboard on the appetizers; save some room for the spicy Kung Pao chicken or the mixed vegetables in spicy black-bean sauce.

In the cultural wilds of Norebo, where the term "restaurant" is most often misapplied to one of three dozen or so interchangeable pizzas-and-subs joints, Chokchai (6620 Harford Road, [410] 426-3244) stands as a necessary culinary haven. From the perfect spring rolls to the steamy, dreamy soups to the rich, Thai-style curries (which top out at $6.95), Chokchai easily eclipses the low-expectations-affirming carry-out standard. Ignore the place's "American menu"--local pizza spots and greasy spoons can handle that--and instead dig in to an awe-inspiring plate of pad thai. And unlike at most storefront carry-outs, vegetarian tastes are accommodated.

Ever wonder how Thairish (804 N. Charles St., [410] 752-5857) got its name? Owner Kerrigan Kitikul seems to have an affinity for the Irish: He married an Irish woman, and he adopted his rather Irish-sounding first name before that--to make it easy on us tongue-tied Westerners. But his food's hardly Irish (thank God); instead, Kitikul takes his cue from the coconut-milk-based curries and rice dishes of his homeland. The real star here is the chicken masaman curry, tender poultry in a savory sauce with barely steamed carrots and broccoli. For his ever-bustling lunch crowd, Kitikul isn't above throwing in a couple of ringers, such as blackened catfish or pan-fried flounder, but stick with the Thai in Thairish and you can't go wrong.

It's small and cramped and in the summer it's very hot, but if you crave authentic Jamaican food served up with real island warmth, you can't beat Caribbean Kitchen (218 N. Liberty St., [410] 837-2274). The tiny lunch counter offers the usual lunch-counter stuff (including a huge and inexpensive lake-trout sandwich that puts most places to shame), but the Caribbean specialties are the Kitchen's primary draw: wickedly spicy jerk chicken, succulent curried goat, golden plantains, and yummy Jamaican beef and chicken patties, all served up with a kind smile. You'll walk out feeling irie.

Though the menu at Viccino's (1315 N. Charles St., [410] 576-0266) spans spaghetti and meatballs, tiramisu, and Caesar salad, its strong suit is the happy- medium pizza--a fresh, quality pie for a cheap, chain-pizza-joint price. This isn't the chi-chi brick-oven variety, but the crust is never greasy and, while it borders on the doughy, it's tastier than most. The real secret weapon is the sauce, thick with tomato and nicely sweet. The toppings cover the standard gamut and then some, and the calzones follow suit.

Michaelangelo's (235 W. Read St., [410] 462-3662) delivers decent, reasonably priced pizza and pasta, but what really separates this tiny Mount Vernon storefront from its peers is the bread--crispy, doughy, chewy, yeasty rounds that, halved and stuffed with meat and veggies, make for some of the most heartily satisfying sandwiches to be had in these parts, carry-out or otherwise. And Michaelangelo's garlic bread is a work of art.

There are times when only down-home Southern cooking will do. At those moments, we hop into the car and head over to the Roost (5281 Reisterstown Road, [410] 578-0232) in Northwest Baltimore. Victuals are served strictly carry-out, but what a feast you'll take home: luscious candied sweet potatoes, slightly sweet yet tangy collard greens, crispy fried chicken, meaty barbecued spare ribs, rib-ticklingly good peach cobbler. But the best thing perched at the Roost, bar none, is its outstanding lake trout. Fresh, golden-brown, and gargantuan in size, the Roost's whiting known by another name is worth the drive all by itself.

Related stories

Eat Feature archives

More Stories

Price Point (3/3/2010)
EAT: City Paper's annual dining guide

Central (3/3/2010)

Harbor Area (3/3/2010)

Comments powered by Disqus
CP on Facebook
CP on Twitter