The Hours and the Times
A Day in the Life of Baltimore Dining
There's no such thing as a one-size-fits-all restaurant, even though some joints try mightily to fit the bill (and often please no one in their attempts to please everyone). Some places have the bacon-and-eggs thing nailed. Others draw java junkies like a crack dealer with a good corner. Some bistros' entire clientele seems to consist of grown children and their visiting parents, all facing heaping plates of red meat and potatoes. Some restaurants get it together only when loading their dessert cart.
Some places push the limits of the adventurous palate, while others comfort the jangled body and spirit. And the Baltimore diner does not live by adventure or comfort alone. In the course of a day you may reach for both familiarity and exotica--ham and cheese on white for lunch, Afghan aushak with pan-fried pumpkin for dinner. This year's dining guide is designed to point out some of the tastier options available around town at any hour of the day--although if you prefer to enjoy your pan-fried pumpkin with your morning coffee, you're on your own.
One caveat before you dig in. This is a big town, with a big stomach. Eat 1998 includes the places that, for whatever reason, we consider indispensable entries on Baltimore's culinary checklist, but it is by no means exhaustive, nor could it be. (We love our work, but there are only so many restaurants we can sample and only so much space in which to write about them.) Just because an eatery isn't listed herein doesn't mean it isn't worth checking out. We hope you'll find Eat a useful tool in your gustatory explorations, but by all means do some exploring on your own--and let us know what you find.
Eat was written by Michelle Gienow, Brennen Jensen, and Andy Markowitz, with contributions from Carl Davies, Natalie Davis, Heather Joslyn, Joe MacLeod, Eileen Murphy, and Molly Rath. Sam Holden took the photographs (except for the "Road Kill" photographs, which were shot by David O. Barranco), and Tom Chalkley drew the adorable Mr. Eat.ABOUT THE COVER: Chef Rigby's class from Baltimore International College posed for this year's Eat cover. A tip of the toque goes out to the chef, Theresa Amland, Claire Audsen, Bryan Cook, Sarah Davis, Rachel Goren, Shawn Graber, Marie Jenkins, Cheryl Percy, Holly Persinger, Eunice Roberts, Carl Simons, and Allegra Smith, and to Steve Duley and Dave Daniel for their help in coordinating the whole thing.
812 Park Ave.
Baltimore, MD 21201